At Sushi Akira, the omakase experience isn’t just a meal, Chef Nikki Zheng is the maestro that makes it a symphony. With masterful, almost musical precision, she curates an intimate, transportive dining experience that blends tradition with quiet innovation; her sushi is truly a work of art. As one of the few female chefs helming a high-end sushi counter, Chef Nikki moves with the confidence of someone who has fought for her place in a male-dominated field—yet her presence is warm, her attention to detail almost orchestral.
Over the next decade, I hope to see more diversity behind sushi counters—not only more female chefs but also a shift toward valuing talent and passion over outdated traditions.
Chef Nikki Zheng
I had the pleasure of dining at Sushi Akira to get a first-hand taste of Chef Nikki’s art. From the moment she greeted me with a kind inquiry about my day to the final, delicate bite of housemade roasted green tea pudding, every interaction felt deliberate, every dish a story. Over the course of the evening, I watched as she seamlessly balanced flavors; rich foie gras tempered with bright acidity, smoky mackerel unfolding in layers of complexity, Hokkaido sea urchin melting like oceanic ice cream. In honor of Women’s History Month, I asked Chef Nikki to talk about her journey from Michelin-starred kitchens in Tokyo to breaking barriers in New York, the art of omakase, and why sushi—despite what she was once told—isn’t just a man’s game.
(Conversation lightly edited for length and clarity.)
What made you choose to pursue Omakase and Sushi as a culinary career?
When I was studying in Japan, I worked part-time as a dishwasher at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Tokyo. It was there that I discovered food’s incredible power to transform perceptions and bring genuine joy. I didn’t always know this would be my path, but what kept me going was the relentless pursuit of perfection. I’ve always been drawn to precision, restraint, and attention to detail—qualities that define sushi in its highest form. Sushi may appear simple, but in reality, there’s no room for error. From the freshness of the fish and the temperature of the rice to the texture of each grain and the exact pressure of every grip—each subtle detail determines whether a single piece of sushi succeeds or falls short. I became dedicated to mastering this delicate balance, driven by my belief that creating sushi is a lifelong discipline of constant refinement.
Omakase is often seen as an exclusive, almost sacred dining experience with strict traditions. Your approach—offering a high-end yet more accessible omakase menu—challenges that notion. What was the biggest risk in breaking from convention, and how have diners and the culinary world responded?
On one end of the spectrum, Michelin-starred omakase experiences priced above $500 cater to diners seeking prestige and exclusivity. On the other, affordable omakase options sacrifice quality to attract diners looking for frequent, budget-friendly meals. Our goal is to bridge this gap by delivering Michelin-level quality at an accessible price point, ensuring our guests enjoy a refined yet approachable dining experience at $200.
We understand this middle ground involves unique challenges: diners accustomed to ultra-luxurious experiences may question our quality, while those used to budget omakase may find our prices higher. To overcome this, we remain committed to sourcing only the finest ingredients, meticulously crafting every dish, and prioritizing creativity over traditional limitations.
So far, our diners’ responses have been overwhelmingly positive. Once guests experience our omakase, they quickly realize it meets—or exceeds—their expectations in terms of quality, taste, and value, and they appreciate the balance of authenticity and innovation.
You’ve spoken about facing skepticism early in your career, with people saying, “Women can’t handle sushi knives.” Can you share a specific moment when you had to prove yourself in the kitchen, and what that experience taught you about resilience in a male-dominated space?
There have been many memorable moments in my career, but one that particularly stands out was when I first joined the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Masa. As I was carefully preparing a fish, I overheard Chef Takayama quietly observing and remarking, “She makes sushi calmly, quickly, and excellently—truly rare and exceptional. That’s how you should work.”
Receiving such praise from a master chef deeply inspired me—it was more than just a compliment; it validated that skill and dedication transcend gender. His words motivated me to continue refining my craft, reminding me that the best way to overcome biases is through consistently demonstrating excellence until these biases eventually fade away.
Your culinary background spans Japanese kitchens, classical French techniques, and your own Chinese heritage. How do those influences come together in a dish at Sushi Akira, and how does your diverse training shape your philosophy on omakase?
My culinary foundation is rooted deeply in Japanese sushi, emphasizing precision, balance, and respect for the natural flavors of ingredients. I think simplicity is the key—that every cut, every seasoning, all the technique is meant to enhance, not overpower.
My experience with French cuisine further deepened my appreciation for aesthetics and presentation, teaching me that how a dish looks can be as meaningful as its taste.
Additionally, my Chinese background adds yet another layer of depth. I thoughtfully weave in elements like aged soy sauce, fermented ingredients, or subtle touches of citrus—each evoking the delicate balance of acidity and umami characteristic of Cantonese seafood dishes.
This fusion allows me to create omakase that honors tradition while bringing a unique identity to each course. My philosophy is simple: respect the fundamentals, but never hesitate to evolve.
Luxury dining, especially omakase, can sometimes feel intimidating or exclusive. How have you designed Sushi Akira—not just the menu, but the atmosphere—to make it more inviting and redefine what fine dining can be?
I believe omakase should feel personal and immersive—never intimidating. We’ve carefully designed an experience that’s warm, engaging, and interactive. Our intimate, relaxed atmosphere allows guests to feel truly connected to the process. Instead of the traditional silent, rigid environment, we encourage conversation, storytelling, and genuine interactions between chef and diner. Our ultimate goal is to deliver an unforgettable experience that’s both refined and welcoming, ensuring every guest feels comfortably involved from start to finish.
You’re not just making waves in the culinary world—you’re creating space for future female sushi chefs. What advice do you have for them, and what do you hope will change in the industry over the next decade?
Success in this industry begins with choosing something you genuinely love and wholeheartedly committing to it. Turning an ordinary path into extraordinary success depends greatly on your ability to execute consistently and with excellence. If you pair strong execution skills with unwavering dedication to your passion, you’ll carve out a unique niche—going one meter wide but ten thousand meters deep—and ultimately become an expert in your craft.
Sushi, in particular, demands precision, restraint, and meticulous attention to detail. Stay focused, continuously refine your skills, and never let external doubts or negativity undermine your determination. Seek out mentors who believe in you, but also be prepared to move forward even when support isn’t readily available. The culinary world, especially within sushi kitchens, still harbors biases—but your skill and perseverance will always speak louder than stereotypes.
Over the next decade, I hope to see more diversity behind sushi counters—not only more female chefs but also a shift toward valuing talent and passion over outdated traditions. The ultimate goal is to normalize seeing women leading sushi kitchens, rather than treating it as exceptional. True progress happens when opportunities are awarded based on skill, passion, and dedication, not gender.
The following are images from my experience at Sushi Akira
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