Most luxury watches treat time adjustment like an afterthought. You twist a tiny crown, feel the mechanical resistance, and hope you land on the right minute. Vanguart looked at this centuries-old interface and asked a simple question: what if setting time could be as engaging as reading it?
Designer: Vanguart
The Black Hole Tourbillon answers with a joystick. Not a crown dressed up to look modern, but an actual ergonomic joystick system that lets you push time forward or pull it backward with the slightest pressure. It’s the kind of design choice that makes you wonder why every other watchmaker is still using miniature knobs.
The Levitating Tourbillon That Defines the Dial
The center of the Black Hole dial presents what appears to be a floating tourbillon, hovering above three concentric tiers of titanium. Vanguart calls it a “levitating flying tourbillon,” and the visual effect lives up to that description. The caliber T-1701 mechanism creates the illusion of weightlessness while maintaining the precision you’d expect from 775 hand-assembled components.
Time displays through a linear system where hours and minutes each occupy their own concentric ring, bordering the tourbillon rather than competing with it. The dial doesn’t just show time. It orchestrates a three-tier mechanical ballet where every element serves both function and visual narrative.
What makes this approach work is the restraint. Instead of packing the dial with complications and sub-dials, Vanguart gave the tourbillon space to breathe. The titanium tiers create depth without clutter, and the hand-painted indications provide just enough contrast to remain legible without disrupting the futuristic aesthetic.
Design Without Visible Fasteners
The case architecture follows a principle rarely executed this cleanly: no visible screws, no exposed pins, nothing that breaks the flowing geometry. The exoskeleton and fuselage are microblasted with polished bevels that catch light across complex curves. Grade 5 titanium in the base model keeps the weight at 80 grams. The rose and white gold versions climb to 173 grams, but the visual language remains identical across all three limited editions.
This seamless approach extends to how the case integrates with the joystick system. Traditional crown guards would have interrupted the organic lines. Instead, the joystick emerges as part of the case architecture, positioned where your fingers naturally rest. The design team coordinated every surface element with the mechanical layout inside, treating the case as an extension of the movement rather than a container for it.
The Interaction Design Philosophy
Vanguart positions this as “emotional engineering,” which sounds like marketing speak until you consider what they’re actually doing. The joystick time-setting system changes how you physically interact with the watch. Push forward to advance time, pull back to reverse it. The resistance feels deliberate, the feedback immediate. It transforms a functional task into something tactile and engaging.
This matters because luxury watchmaking often prioritizes technical complexity over user experience. You get incredible movements trapped behind interfaces designed 300 years ago. The Black Hole Tourbillon rethinks that equation. The 42-hour power reserve indicator runs vertically along the case, giving you an instant visual gauge without adding dial clutter. Every interaction point receives the same consideration.
The result is a watch that respects your time while asking you to slow down and appreciate the mechanics. You’re not just checking the hour. You’re engaging with 775 components working in coordination, visible through the architectural dial design.
Limited Production and Material Choices
Eight pieces per material configuration. Titanium for the weight-conscious, rose gold for warmth, white gold for understated luxury. Each version uses the same titanium dial with silver or anthracite PVD coating, maintaining visual consistency across the collection. The movements receive gold or silver PVD treatment depending on the case material, creating subtle coordination between exterior and interior finishes.
The rubber straps make sense for watches this technically focused. Leather would feel too traditional, metal bracelets would add weight and cost. The anthracite strap on titanium and white versions on gold cases complement without competing. These are considered design decisions, not default choices.
What This Watch Represents for Independent Watchmaking
Vanguart launched in 2017 with serious credentials. CEO Axel Leuenberger came from APRP’s R&D department, Chief Technical Officer Jeremy Frelechox spent 15 years at APRP, Chief Creative Officer Thierry Fischer designed for major established brands. They’re not outsiders disrupting tradition. They’re insiders asking what tradition might look like if you started fresh.
The Black Hole Tourbillon demonstrates this approach. It uses high-complication watchmaking techniques in service of an interface philosophy borrowed from product design and user experience. The joystick isn’t a gimmick. It’s a genuine rethinking of how we interact with mechanical time.
Whether this approach influences broader watchmaking remains to be seen. But for now, the Black Hole Tourbillon stands as evidence that even centuries-old categories can evolve when designers ask fundamental questions about form, function, and human interaction.
Limited to 8 pieces per configuration (titanium, rose gold, white gold). Available through Vanguart at info@vanguart.com.
The post The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon Replaces the Crown with a Joystick first appeared on Yanko Design.